Our journey through northern Italy began in Florence, and led us to Tuscany, Emelia Romagna, Bologna & Modena: Let us share the Authentic Food & Culture we discovered that You Won’t Find in Guidebooks in part 2 of our guide to northern Italy.
Eat & live like a local in Northern Italy! We bypassed the tourist crowds to find authentic restaurants frequented by the locals & cultural experiences in Bologna, Parma, Turin & beyond. From the medieval streets of Bologna, 1000 year old family-owned vineyards and wine cellars, Parmagiano Reggiano in Emelia-Romana, Turin’s hidden wine bars & Alba’s truffle hunts, we reveal the best local spots. Learn how to eat & live like a local, even in Florence & Milan.
This second installment delves into the heart of Florence, the rolling hills of Tuscany, the gastronomic powerhouse of Emilia-Romagna, the vibrant city of Bologna and the family tradition of creatiing balsamic vinegar in Modena. Forget the typical tourist traps; we’re sharing the authentic food and culture you won’t find in most guidebooks. Join us as we eat and live like locals in this captivating region!
Experience Authentic Italy: From the medieval charm of Bologna and ancient family-owned Tuscan vineyards and wine cellars to the legendary Parmigiano Reggiano of Emilia-Romagna, the hidden wine bars of Turin, and the coveted truffle hunts of Alba (though not explicitly covered in this section), we unveil the best local spots. Discover how to truly eat and live like a local, even in popular destinations like Florence and Milan.
Introduction to northern Italy
- Did you think Florence was just about the Duomo, art and shopping? Of course we did those things! But we also discovered a side of this ancient city that can’t be experienced from a tour bus. We sought out local restaurants that will tantalize your taste buds and found local points of interest that immersed us in the authentic culture of the region.
- This installment of our multipart series on our adventure to northern Italy starts in the artistic hub of Florence, then takes us through the heart of Tuscan wine countryside, the culinary epicenter of Bologna, and the balsamic vinegar haven of Modena, all while seeking out local experiences and flavors.
Florence: A City of Culinary & Artistic Delights
We arrived at quaint Florence airport where our northern Italian adventure would begin.
Florence: Where Art Meets Gastronomy
Our mornings in Florence were greeted by the irresistible aroma of freshly baked Italian breakfast pastries. Our absolute favorite quickly became the delicate pistachio croissant and cappuccino enjoyed amidst the lively atmosphere of local Florentine cafes. We quickly learned that in Italy, coffee isn’t just a grab-and-go affair; it’s a cherished experience.
These croissants are a revelation – light, airy layers with a crisp crust, generously filled with rich pistachio cream. A truly delectable start to any day. They are quite the difference from the cakey version of the croissant we have become accustomed to in the States. We also embraced the local custom that cappuccino is best enjoyed before noon. While you can order it anytime, doing so after midday marks you as a tourist yet to embrace the authentic Italian café culture.
Our afternoons were dedicated to exploring the unparalleled cultural treasures and art that Florence is famous for.
Our time in Florence was likely the most tourist-heavy part of our Northern Italy trip. The city center’s narrow, winding stone streets are adorned with breathtaking medieval and Renaissance buildings and palaces. The best way to soak in the atmosphere is undoubtedly on foot. While the streets teem with tourists frequenting charming small restaurants, high-end boutiques, and traditional shops, be sure to make a pilgrimage to Badiani, the undisputed OG for gelato on the planet. Indulge in their legendary Buontalenti gelato, a simple yet luxurious and award-winning flavor that can only be experienced at this location. Many have tried, but none have successfully replicated this incredible Florentine gelato.
Another essential stop is Biscottificio Antonio Mattei, the birthplace of the original almond biscotti, also known as Cantucci. Since our return, the simple pleasure of enjoying cantucci with an espresso or a glass of Vin Santo has become a cherished part of our daily lives.
Dining in Florence, Where to go
When it comes to dining in Florence, finding a bad meal is a challenge. In the afternoons, you’ll see many locals and tourists enjoying enormous Italian paninis in the streets. We made a conscious effort to dine in the less touristy areas to savor genuine Florentine cuisine. Be warned: unless you’re in a tourist-oriented establishment, you won’t find many of the red-sauce laden dishes commonly associated with Italian food in America. Instead, expect delicate cream sauces with a touch of cherry tomatoes and flavorful smoked meats, and steak which are prevalent in this region.
Two meals particularly stood out during our time in Florence. The first was at Ristorante Parione, a pleasant walk from our hotel but centrally located near the iconic Ponte Vecchio. Our research indicated this establishment was renowned for the quintessential Florentine dish: Bistecca alla Fiorentina con patate croccanti (Florentine steak with crispy potatoes). This magnificent Florentine steak is a T-bone for two, magically seasoned to perfection and cooked over hot coals to achieve a beautifully charred exterior while remaining wonderfully rare inside. Ordering it medium or well-done is simply not an option. If you plan to visit, be sure to make a reservation as it’s a popular spot among locals.
We shared a bottle of local Tuscan wine and a plate of Pici all’aglione con scaglie di pecorino, Rigatino affumicato e pomodorino pachino. Translation, pici with garlic, shaved pecorino, smoked speck and panchino cherry tomatoes. The pici pasta is freshly made and is a thick, hand-rolled spaghetti, similar to bucatini, tossed with savory shaved pecorino Romano cheese, flavorful speck (smoked cured ham), sweet cherry tomatoes, all topped with crunchy day old bread. It was absolutely outstanding.
The Florentine steak arrived with a magnificent presentation, the bone proudly centered on the plate, surrounded by the succulent meat, perfectly roasted potatoes, and a side of simple white beans. The herb seasonings of the steak was exquisite. This was easily one of the best steaks I’ve ever had. The steak was more than we could finish, and instead of discarding we gave it to a woman and her college aged son who we became aquainted with. His college roommate would eat like a king that night! Our only regret with this meal was that we were far too full to even consider dessert.
The staff at Parione were warm and welcoming, a consistent occurrence during our stay. We found the people to be so friendly. On our way out, I commented to the maitre d that I hadn’t heard our Italian surname pronounced as he had when he called us for our table in forever and that it invoked childhood memories. Well, that led to further conversation, after which he brought us back inside, where we shared a bottle of wine, and learned where he is from, and that he lived in the States for a bit. A truly enjoyable conversation.
Our second unforgettable meal was at Trattoria Marione. How to best describe this Florentine trattoria? Simple, lively, friendly, authentic, and exactly what we were searching for. Upon entering, you’re immediately struck by its loud and rustic atmosphere. The tables are close together, and the aged mismatched dishes and plates evoke the feeling of dining at your grandmother’s house.
The menu is handwritten on a piece of paper, and our server was simply “il migliore” (the best). His demeanor was gruff but kind, his English limited, but when we simply said “vino,” he promptly brought us two well-worn glasses filled with the magnificent house wine. Note, in our two weeks in Italy we didnt experience one sip of bad wine! When he came to take our order, we told him we wanted him to bring us “autentica cena e Firenze” (authentic Florentine dinner). He smiled, took our menus, didn’t make fun of my barely proficient Italian and simply said, “I bring.” We knew we were in for a treat!
For our first course, we were presented with two small, chipped plates, and the server placed an old oval platter in front of us, declaring, “Florentine, eat this!” Susie asked if I knew what it was, and thanks to my research, I recognized it as Lampredotto. I told her I did and encouraged her to try it first, which she gladly did.
Lampredotto is a classic, rustic Florentine street food; a “peasant food” consisting of tender cow’s fourth stomach simmered in a hearty gravy, with a consistency similar to a stew, often served with white beans. What makes this particularly notable is that a cow has four stomachs, and the fourth stomach processes content much closer to excretion than ingestion. Now that I’ve painted that picture, I must confess that we both agreed it was surprisingly good.
For our “primi” we had spaghetti con ragu, a delicious Italian ragu made with a variety of meats cooked for hours with an Italian sofrito, tomato sauce and wine. For our secondi we were presented a beef dish that we honestly were not familiar with. Il Migliore brought us Beef Peposo con Fagioli, which is a Tuscan beef stew that is cooked for hours in a pepper and chianti sauce. The gravy was dark, silky, savory, and loaded with the regional local flavor after stewing for hours in a Tuscan chianti.
This dish screams Tuscany and is what you are looking for when you go on a foodie excursion in Tuscany. It is served in a simple fashion, however its texture borders on elegant. You will not see Peposo con fagioli at a touristy restaurant, and if you do it will never achieve the authenticity of the dish we experienced at Trattoria Marione. This meal was why we came here and did our research trying to locate restaurants frequented by the locals. Il ristorante e magnifico.
To finish our authentic Florentine meal, we were served cantucci, or biscotti, accompanied by Vin Santo. While we enjoy making biscotti at home, we’d never experienced them with Vin Santo, as this sweet dessert wine isn’t very common in the States. The combination was a revelation – absolutely amazing.
Art and Culture of Florence: Beyond the Plate
Beyond the incredible Florentine food, we immersed ourselves in the rich art and culture of this magnificent city. On our first evening we accidentally discovered the Duomo located around the block from our hotel. The following night we enjoyed dinner in the piazza around the Duomo.
A true highlight this day was standing in awe before Michelangelo’s David at the Accademia Gallery of Florence. Full confession, neither of us are hardcore art aficionados, but witnessing this breathtaking creation in person sent shivers down our spines. The sheer size, intricate detail, and elegant beauty are truly captivating. This is a must-see, and pre-ordering tickets for entry is highly recommended. If possible, visiting with a knowledgeable guide will allow you to experience all the gallery has to offer in an efficient manner.
A second essential cultural experience in Florence is the Uffizi Gallery. The Uffizi Gallery is one of the world’s most renowned art museums, housed in a distinctive U-shaped palace originally built in the 16th century to house the city’s administrative offices (“Uffizi” translates to “offices”). It was later transformed into a gallery by the powerful Medici family to showcase their vast collection of artistic treasures.
Today, the Uffizi boasts an unparalleled collection of Italian Renaissance paintings, including masterpieces by iconic artists such as Botticelli, Leonardo da Vinci, Michelangelo, and Raphael. This gallery is a must-visit for both dedicated art lovers and those, like us, who appreciate culture and history. Trust us, some of these pieces will evoke emotions and sensations you’ve never experienced before.
Tuscan Wine Country: A Day Trip to Chianti
Tuscan Vineyards: A Taste of Paradise at Casa Emma
Our driver picked us up early for our much-anticipated day trip to the enchanting Tuscan wine country. After several scenic stops to admire the breathtaking views – a panoramic overview of Florence, charming small towns seemingly frozen in time, and majestic vistas of rolling hills carpeted with Tuscan vineyards – we arrived in the renowned Chianti region of Tuscany.
Our primary destination was Casa Emma, where we had arranged a tour of the estate, an insightful introduction to the wine-making process, and a personalized wine tasting expertly paired with a rustic Tuscan lunch. Our lunch began with a plate of cured meats, cheese and traditional Tuscan appetizers. The appetizers were followed by a plate of ravioli served in a delicious ragu. The wine tastings featured a selection of their estate-grown wines, accompanied by a brief history of the vineyard. While the current ownership dates back to 1969, we learned that this land has been dedicated to wine production for nearly a thousand years! A truly astounding history, almost unbelievable to an American.
Following our informative tour, we were seated on a picturesque balcony overlooking the ancient vineyards, cultivated for nearly a millennium. Our imaginations wandered, picturing life here centuries ago without the conveniences of modern machinery and technology. The scenery was simply spectacular, and the Tuscan lunch perfectly complemented the setting. Each course was thoughtfully paired with exquisite wines from Casa Emma.
Tuscan Vineyards: A quick tasting at Sant’Appiano
After our delightful visit to Casa Emma, our knowledgeable and extremely personable driver Giovanni asked if we were interested in visiting a second vineyard that wasn’t on our original itinerary. He described a small, family-run operation that he thought we would particularly appreciate. How could we resist such a spontaneous opportunity? Our enthusiastic answer was, “Giovanni, it’s taken us decades to make this trip; of course, we want to go!”
The Sant’ Appiano farm, nestled on an ancient Tuscan estate in the heart of the Chianti region, has been producing traditional Tuscan wines since the fourteenth century. This vineyard felt less formal and more rustic, embodying our preconceived image of a Tuscan vineyard. The farm exuded a genuine, family-owned charm. For instance, when our incredibly friendly tour guide introduced us to the owner, who is involved in all aspects of the wine production, he quickly corrected her, emphasizing that the true “boss” was his grandmother! He then added with a smile that he was available to answer any questions but needed to get back to work as she might be watching.
We enjoyed a brief tour of the charming property and then sat down for a simple snack of local cheeses, crusty bread, and flavorful cured meats to accompany our impromptu wine tasting. To conclude our visit, we were offered a few cantucci paired with their own Vin Santo. After a full day of sampling incredible Tuscan wines, it was their unique Vin Santo that truly captured our attention.
From our “non-expert” palates, the first thing we noticed about this Vin Santo was its beautiful, earthy amber hue. Upon sipping, we initially detected an earthy flavor followed by the distinct taste of dried fruit, particularly raisins. This was followed by a subtle sweetness, finishing with a more pronounced earthy note on the tongue that we couldn’t quite identify. Our guide suggested this lingering finish was likely walnut or coffee. This Tuscan dessert wine was so unique and memorable that we purchased a case to be shipped back home.
Back to Florence to end the day
Upon returning to Florence around 6 pm, after a full day of eating and wine tasting. This is much too early to consider dinner in Italy, so as we were both a bit jet lagged we decided to take a nap, then wake in time for a late dinner. We set our clock to wake us at 730. We woke at 10 and realizing we set our alarm for 730 am. A solid case for using military time!
When we set out for dinner, most restaurants were not accepting new diners, but the place pictured below did with one caveat, we could have lasagna. We smiled and said sure! The lasagna was very good ( especially for a touristy spot) and the setting was picturesque. We were both now hungry, so after freshening up in record time we hit the streets searching for a place to serve us at this hour.
After being refused service quite a few times, we came across a touristy restaurant near the Duomo that told us we can serve you if you would like lasagna. Sold! The Lasagna was delicious and the espresso was top notch.
Bologna: A Culinary Capital:
While based in Florence, a full-day excursion was easily within reach, encompassing a fascinating tour to learn about and witness the creation of the world-famous Parmigiano Reggiano cheese, a leisurely walk through and delicious lunch in Bologna, a beautiful ancient city widely considered the culinary center of Italy, and finally, a stop in Modena to uncover the traditional process behind crafting authentic balsamic vinegar. Knowing it would be a packed day, our driver Carlo picked us up early from our hotel to begin this exciting Italian food adventure.
Emilia Romagna: Form dairy farm to a wheel of Parmigiano Reggiano.
Our journey towards Bologna commenced with an enthralling look into the origins of Parmigiano-Reggiano, a true Italian culinary treasure. This part of our Emilia Romagna food tour began with a visit deep into the heart of the region to witness the magic behind the creation of this iconic cheese.
Once we left the Italian equivalent of the American interstate, the roads gradually narrowed, eventually becoming single-lane tracks where oncoming cars had to carefully coordinate to pass. The day was cool and misty, a typical autumn day for this part of Italy. Our initial observation of this region was the rich texture and deep color of the soil in the surrounding farms. The soil and climate are integral to the creation of parmigiano reggiano.
We parked at what appeared to be a typical dairy farm and were informed that the authentic Parmigiano Reggiano is made right here. It’s crucial to note that only cheese produced in this specific region and following the traditional methods we were about to witness can bear this prestigious name. This strict regulation is in place to protect this iconic cheese, which has been produced for over a thousand years. If you’re unfamiliar with the intricate Parmigiano Reggiano production process, it’s quite possible you’ve never tasted the real thing. In America, countless imitations use similar names, and many have likely unknowingly consumed an imposter. Remember, if it isn’t labeled Parmigiano Reggiano, it simply isn’t.
To create this exceptional cheese, specific breeds of cows and their unique feed are essential for the milk’s quality. The cows are kept in spacious areas and milked regularly. The fresh milk is then transported to the on-site cheese-making facility, where skilled artisans carefully separate the curds and whey, shaping the curds into the characteristic large wheels.
The leftover whey is used to produce authentic Italian ricotta cheese. Once formed, the Parmigiano Reggiano wheels are moved to a vast aging warehouse, where experts meticulously inspect each wheel over time to ensure it meets the stringent standards required to be sold under the prestigious name. The cheese is sold at various ages, with the longest-aged varieties boasting the most distinctive texture and intense flavor.
At the conclusion of the fascinating Parmigiano Reggiano tour, we were treated to a tasting of the different ages of the cheese, paired with local Langhe wine. We weren’t told which cheese we were sampling and were asked to choose our favorite. Despite still feeling slightly jet-lagged, the cheese was exquisite. Unsurprisingly, we both selected the longest-aged Parmigiano Reggiano. This description is a brief overview; for more in-depth information, please follow this link to their website, which provides comprehensive details.
Bologna: A Gastronomic Adventure Through the Markets
Carlo dropped us off to meet our local guide for the day in Piazza Maggiore, Bologna’s vibrant central square. Our first impressions of Bologna were of its picturesque architecture and charming streets, featuring impressive medieval towers and elegant porticoes. The ancient stone streets and traditional markets transport you to a bygone era, where you can almost imagine yourself centuries ago, surrounded by traditional cured meats hanging from the ceiling, freshly baked bread in baskets, and delectable stuffed fresh pasta available to be purchased – until you blink and remember it’s 2024.
Many believe that Bologna is the culinary capitol of Italy. The stuffed pastas, cured meats breads and medieval markets strongly support this statement. Our guide jokingly advised us that the angel looking over Bologna is depicted a bit rotund for this very reason. After experiencing Bologna’s central market, we certainly understood.
Bologna Central Market– A Feast for the Senses
Our guide led us through a bustling market that has thrived in this location since medieval times. The simplicity and freshness of the local produce, combined with the evident pride in the displays of freshly made pastas, high-quality meats, and fresh fish, offer a valuable lesson in food culture. We both agreed that we had never encountered markets with such an appetizing selection of produce and protein anywhere we had shopped.
For our first stop, our guide took us into a charming shop where we were presented with a generous platter of exquisite cured meats, local Italian cheeses, and crusty bread. Our selection of cured meats included the melt-in-your-mouth freshness of thinly sliced mortadella and the regional royalty: culatello and Prosciutto di Parma.
Both of these delicacies are produced in a small, specific geographic area. Culatello hails from the Po River valley in southern Parma, while authentic Prosciutto di Parma production is strictly limited to the geographical boundaries of the Parma production area, limited to the are at least 5 km south of the Via Emilia, extending south up to a maximum altitude of 900 meters, bordered by the Enza River to the east and the Stirone river to the west.
How are Culatello and Prosciutto di Parma different?
Culatello vs. Prosciutto di Parma: A Delicious Showdown
So, what’s the real difference between Culatello and Prosciutto di Parma? Both are revered Italian cured meats from the Emilia-Romagna region, but they’re distinct.
Prosciutto di Parma, often sliced paper-thin, comes from the inner thigh of the pig. Culatello, on the other hand, is crafted from the largest, most prized muscle of the pig’s hind leg, without the bone or rind. This means more intense flavor and a more delicate texture. The process for Culatello is also significantly more labor-intensive, requiring the thigh to be carefully disassembled from an already refined prosciutto cut. This meticulous craftsmanship explains why Culatello is often called the “King of Hams” and commands a higher price than its well-known cousin.
Want to dive even deeper into these authentic Italian delicacies? You can learn more about the strict regulations and traditional processes that make them so special by clicking on this link.
Which did you prefer, Culatello or Prosciutto di Parma?
Our guide insisted we try the Culatello with crispy fried bread and local cheeses, like the iconic Parmigiano Reggiano. And, of course, nothing pairs better than a glass of local Emilia-Romagna wine, perhaps a sparkling Lambrusco. We enjoyed the Prosciutto di Parma with piadina flatbread, more local cheeses, and wine.
So, which did we prefer? Honestly, both were incredible! They were incomparable to any cured meats we have eaten back in the States. But the Culatello’s gentle sweetness and melt-in-your-mouth texture gave it the slight edge. This tasting was truly an unforgettable Italian food experience.
The Art of making Fresh made Pasta
After our incredible late-morning snack of mortadella, Prosciutto di Parma, and Culatello, our culinary tour continued with a mesmerizing demonstration of how fresh pasta and stuffed pastas are made in this region. We watched a talented young woman effortlessly create tajerin, a pasta not widely recognized in the States but best described as a delightful cross between linguine and fettuccine. Then, this true artisan crafted delicate tortellini, larger tortelloni, savory agnolotti, and the unique plin.
While most of us in America know tortellini, tortelloni are simply a larger version. Agnolotti are typically meat-stuffed, made with a thin, egg-based dough rolled with a rolling pin, cut into small squares, and then filled and covered with a second square. They’re sometimes called agnolotti del plin when the second square, or “plin,” is pinched onto the pasta.
Lastly, we observed the making of the stuffed pastas Bologna is well known for. We observed the making or tortelloni, agnonolotti and “plin“, a type of stuffed pasta especially popular in Piedmont. Plin involves rolling egg pasta dough incredibly thin, then cutting it into long bands about three inches wide. The pasta maker carefully places a dollop of meat filling every few inches along the band. The dough is then folded over, gently sealed, and with two fingers, you “pinch,” or “plin,” between each dollop of filling. Finally, a pasta cutter separates and seals each plin.
While my description might sound intricate, they’re not as complicated to make as you’d think! The meat filling are made in a variety of ways, every family possessing their own recipe and each equally delicious. You can see these delicious Italian pastas being created in the video below [link to video].
After watching the incredible pasta class, we had the immense pleasure of enjoying what we had just witnessed being made. We started with tortellini con brodo, or tortellini in broth – a simple yet exquisitely delicious dish that truly highlights the freshness of the pasta. Our second course featured the tajerin we’d just seen crafted, served with a sweet and rich Bolognese ragù made with a delectable assortment of meats, including beef, pork, lamb, and veal. This was authentic Bolognese cuisine at its finest! Upon setting off, we understood why the cities angel was depicted rotund!
Bologna; Piazza Maggiore
After our delightful lunch, we took some time to explore Bologna’s magnificent central square, Piazza Maggiore. Dating back to the year 1200, the medieval buildings and architecture here are simply fabulous. While we’d love to delve deeper into the historical evolution and interesting details of Piazza Maggiore, for brevity, we must limit ourselves here. For those interested in discovering more about this iconic Bologna landmark, you can find additional information here.
Modena: The Art of Balsamic Vinegar
Having eaten our way through Bologna’s medieval markets, we continued our Northern Italy culinary journey to Modena, eager to uncover the artistry, magic, and cherished family traditions associated with making Traditional Balsamic Vinegar.
Modena: Unveiling the Secrets of Balsamic Vinegar
Modena itself is a charming small town, which was a pleasant surprise given its reputation as the global home of balsamic vinegar. By this point, our Italian travel experiences had firmly taught us that in Italy, food production is always about quality and tradition. We arrived at a small estate that featured a lovely visitors’ center, offering a brief introduction to the production of Traditional Balsamic Vinegar of Modena. What we learned was truly fascinating: balsamic vinegar in Modena is deeply rooted in family tradition. Most local families produce their own, and each recipe boasts a unique and cherished flavor profile passed down through generations.
We visited Villa San Donnino and were captivated by the intricate, time-honored process. We discovered how cooked grape must is slowly aged for years, sometimes even decades, in a series of different wooden barrels – often oak, chestnut, cherry, and mulberry – each imparting its own distinct characteristics to the evolving vinegar. This slow, natural evaporation and concentration process creates the complex, rich flavors that define Traditional Balsamic Vinegar of Modena. It’s not just a condiment; it’s a piece of Italian culinary history and a testament to patience and dedication.
Space constrains what we can present about the creatiion of balsamic vinegar. Should you desire to explore this topic further, please follow this link.
While in Modena we brought back home some Bianco dressing, a white vinegar to be served with salads, fish and vegetables. We also brought Marisa Barbieri balsamic vinegar that we use with our garden tomatoes we grow in our backyard.
From Florence to Turin- Our Journey Continues!
After four magnificent days exploring the culinary wonders of Florence, the scenic Tuscan wine country, and the gastronomic heartlands of Emilia-Romagna and Bologna, our Northern Italian adventure continues in Part 3! Join us as we explore the sophisticated charm of Turin and delve into the truffle-rich landscapes of Alba.
“Have you experienced the culinary wonders of Florence or Bologna? We would love to hear about your experiences! Share your favorite spots in the comments below! If you have any questions about our time in Italy, please ask in the comment section below.
Don’t miss the final chapter of our journey – subscribe to our website to stay updated! Unfortunately we have day jobs that pay the bills, so it will take us a bit of time to create part 3. We hope you will subscribe and follow our final installment of this magnificent trip and examine some of our other content by perusing a few of our healthy recipes!
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